Shoe.



E. BROTHERS.

SHOE.

APPLIOATION FILED 81:21. as, 1903.

Patented June v27. 1911.

W/TA/[SSKS 1 Z If 4 c UNTT STATES ANT ELI BROTHERS, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SHOE.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ELI BROTHERS, a citi- Zen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to shoes and particularly to shoes of the type known as stitch-down, that is, shoes having uppers provided with outturned flanges to which the soles are attached. The form of shoe known as stitch-down has been made for the most part only in the cheaper grades. This has been due largely to the difficulty found in shaping the shoe so that it will have a graceful outline in the region of the shank. Various methods have been devised for overcoming this difficulty, but the most of them involve lasting in the upper through the shank region and turning it out only around the forepart. It will be apparent that a shoe of this type is not a true stitchdown and that many of the advantages of a stitch-down shoe are wanting in such a construction.

An object of the present invention is to provide a stitch-down shoe true to the type and yet graceful in outline.

Another object of the invention is to provide a shoe of this type which may be manufactured cheaply and without waste of material, and a further object of the invention is to provide a shoe having an especially flexible sole.

With the foregoing and other objects in view, the invention is herein shown as embodied in a shoe provided with a short insole upon which the upper is lasted in atthe heel and which provides means for stiifening the shank, and an outsole along the edge of which the remaining portions of the lower edge of the upper are turned out and stitched down.

In the preferred embodiment of the invention, the shoe is preferably provided with a lining and the lining is preferably turned in, a thin flexible piece being provided in front of the short insole upon which the inturned portions of the lining at this part of the shoe may be pasted down.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed September 23, 1968.

Patented June 27, 1911.

Serial No. 454,438.

In the accompanying drawings,Figure 1 is a perspective View of the upper of a shoeembodying this invention, the upper being shown in this figure lasted in upon a short insole and having its lining turned in and pasted down upon the insole and upon a skiving in the forepart. Fig. 2 shows an outsole applied to the upper shown in Fig.

l, the outturned flange of the upper having been pressed down upon the sole and preferably caused to adhere thereto, and Fig. 3

shows the upper stitched down upon the outsole, a welt being provided to aid in hold- 1 edge of the upper may readily be turned out and fastened down upon an outsole, especially in the region of the shank, and whereby the line along which the flange of the upper should be turned out in order to provide a snug fitting shoe may readily be determined. 1

With the last disclosed in the co-pending application above referred to, the form of shoe herein shown may conveniently be made. This shoe comprises, as illustrated, an upper 41: cut to the pattern of any desired last, the last 2 upon which the initial lasting of the shoe is done being adapted to take this same pattern. The shoe is provided with an insole 6 which may be long enough simply to permit the lasting in of the upper at the heel, but is preferably long enough also to provide means for stiffening the shank of the shoe. The insole 6 therefore preferably extends forward approximately to the ball of the last.

Inasmuch as the shoe of this invention is intended to be made in the better grades, the upper is preferably provided with a lining 8 which is preferably turned in, as shown in Fig. 1, and pasted down upon the insole, a short flexible piece of material 10, which may be a skiving, being provided in advance of the insole upon which those portions of the inturned lining about the forepart of the shoe may be pasted down. It

will be obvious that this piece 10 will not be needed if the shoe is unlined, or if the lining should be turned out. After the upper has been lasted in at the heel end, as shown in Fig. 1, and the lining has been turned in and pasted down, an outsole is placed upon the last and cement is provided either upon the outturned flange of the upper or along the edge of the outsole, or upon both, and those remaining portions of the upper which project beyond the bottom of the last along its flangegaging edge are pressed down upon the outsole close up to the sides of the last, the flange-gaging edge before mentioned permitting the ready determination of the line along which the flange should be outturned. After the upper has been caused to adhere to the sole in the manner just described and, during this operation, has been fitted tightly over the last, the outsole is then stitched to the flange upon the upper, or vice versa, a welt being laid upon the upper flange and fastened with said flange to the sole, this welt serving not only to improve the appearance of the shoe but also to keep the stitches from being pulled through the upper. The heel seat end of the outsole is then nailed down and a heel attached in the usual manner.

It will be noted that the illustrated. shoe having an insole extending only to the ball of the shoe will be very flexible in the forepart, and therefore comfort-able to wear. It will be noted further that the shoe will be entirely smooth upon the inside except possibly at the heel end where the upper has been lasted in upon the insole and the heel seat has been nailed down, and that at this end the inside of the shoe will need no more covering than the ordinary shoe.

hen the second last has been inserted to give the shoe its final shape and the heel has been attached and the edge of the sole trimmed back in the usual manner, the shoe herein shown will have very much the appearance of a Goodyear welt shoe, although it is not nearly so expensive to manufacture.

It will be noted that in the manufacture of this shoe a novel method is employed involving the successive use of two lasts of different shapes. This method will however not be claimed herein, having been made the subject-matter of a co-pending application of even date herewith.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is l. A shoe comprising an upper having an outturned flange along the bottom edge of the shank and forepart, an insole extending from the heel end of the upper forward sub stantially to the ball of the shoe and an outsole attached to the insole only at the heel, said upper being lasted in over the heel part of the insole and the outt-urned flange being stitched down upon the outsole from one heel corner around to the other.

2. A shoe having an upper and a lining, said upper being provided with an outturned sole attaching flange extending from the heel corner upon one side around the toe to the heel corner upon the other side, a stifi insole extending from the heel end of the shoe substantially to the ball thereof and upon which the heel end of the upper is lasted in, a flexible piece extending from the front of said insole to the end of the. toe upon which the lining is turned in and pasted down and an outsole attached to the upper flange and attached to the insole only at the heel.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses. I

ELI BROTHERS. Witnesses:

H. DORSEY SPENCER, BERNARD BARROWS.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. O. 

